A Fish Finder is a subset of a group of instruments
called sonars.

A Sonar consists of a transmitter, transducer,
receiver and display.

In the simplest terms, an electrical impulse from
a transmitter is converted into a sound wave by the transducer
and sent into the water. When this wave strikes an object, it rebounds.
This echo strikes the transducer, which converts it back into an electric signal,
which is amplified by the receiver and sent to the display.
Since the speed of sound in water is constant (approximately 4800 feet per second),
the time lapse between the transmitted signal and the received echo can be measured
and the distance to the object determined. This process repeats itself many times
per second.

DISPLAY:
The display shows a history of the received echoes. The user can make a number of
adjustments to tailor the display to his or her preference, such as senitivity,
the depth range and chart speed. Displays use a variety of technologies,
provide different resolutions and number of shades of gray or color. Each display
is made up of a number of pixels, which are little square blocks that make up the images.
The more pixels and shades of gray or color the better resolution and image clarity.

Fish Targets:
Echoes from fish within the beam will be shown on the display by illuminated pixels.
What image appears on the display depends on a number of factors: the sensitivity
setting on the fishfinder, the cone angle of the transducer, the speed of the boat,
and the size, depth, speed and direction of the fish. A fish that is swimming directly
beneath the boat, it will create a consistent echo that will cause a continuous line
to appear on the display. A stationary fish caught in a narrow beam transducer appears
as a single point on the screen as the boat passes above it, whereas under the same
conditions the fish appears as an arch if a wide beam transducer is used.

To read more of How Fish Finders Work, or select Fish Finder that right for you,
please visit our site at: http://www.bystore.org/
Almost anyone can now afford to own a unit that will assist in a better fishing.

After seeing a pair of snag-free sinkers at local tackle shop going for $5.00 I decided to do a little research on snag-free sinkers to see if I could make my own. I have been fishing with guides who made their own and figured there would be something on the internet about it. A quick search on Google landed me on the Forum of KatMasters.com. I found a couple of posts about the snag-free sinkers and decided to make them myself. Listed below are step-by-step instructions on how to make your own snag-free (slinky) sinkers. It is not rocket science, but I figured an article would help.

Materials & Tools

• Nylon boot laces
• Size BB Split-shot
• Pliers
• Lighter
• Drinking Straw
• Knife or Scissors

Step 1: Determine how much split-shot to use. I didn’t have anything to measue how many ounces a single piece of split shot was, so back to Google I went. I found that 9 pieces of size BB split-shot weighs 5 grams. Great, but how many grams are in an ounce? Google says: 1 gram = 0.0352739619 oz. So I got out the old calculator and figured that roughly 50 pieces of size BB split-shot make up an ounce. After laying out my 50 pieces, I quickly noticed that my finished sinker would be over 9 inches long. I decided to make 1/2 oz sinkers with what I had and to go back to Bass Pro Shops and get larger split-shot for my 1 oz sinkers.

Step 2: Cut the ends off of the boot laces. You will see an inner lace and an outer nylon shell. Pull the inner piece out of the shell. You will be left with the outer nylon.

Step 3: (Optional) - Cut a drinking straw at an angle so you can use it to funnel the split-shot into the end of the lace. If you do not use a straw, the end of the lace will unravel more than if you did use a straw. The straw that I used was too big around to stick it completely into the lace. If I had a smaller straw or a lace with a larger diameter it probably would have worked better.

Step 4: Since I was making a 1/2 oz sinker with size BB split-shot I found that it was best to put the shot in 3 at a time and pinch it down the lace until it was in the lace about 1 inch longer than the length of a finished sinker. Since my final product was 4.5 inches, I pushed the split-shot down to 5.5 inches from the end of the lace. This left enough lace at the end to cut off and melt. I also found that pinching the split-shot closed made it slide down the lace easier.

Step 5: Next I held the end of the lace with my side-cutter pliers. These worked great because I could clamp onto the end of the lace very easily. Needle-nose pliers would work fine here too.

Step 6: Next use the lighter to melt the end of the lace. Be sure to place something on top of your work area to prevent a “wife delivered knot” from forming on your head…er to prevent hot burning nylon from damaging the work surface (dining room table in my case).

Step 7: While the nylon is still hot, use the pliers to pinch the end of the lace closed. This also makes it easier to get the snap-swivel on.

Step 8: Last, add the snap-swivel to the end of the sinker.

With 1 box of split shot containing 150 pieces, I was able to make six 1/2oz sinkers. After adding it all up they came out to $0.83 a piece. (It is actually a little less because I had some material left over.) Compared to $2.50 a piece this was a steal. This was my first time trying to do this and I was able to make 1 sinker in 5 minutes. I am sure once I start doing this more, I will get quicker.

Things I would do different.

• Use a larger size of split-shot - BB was just too small. A 1 oz sinker would have been over 9 inches long.
• Larger diameter rope - The boot laces worked great for size BB split-shot, but I would need something bigger if I went to a larger size.
• Smaller snap-swivel - I think I could have gotten by with size 5 instead of size 3.
• Use lead (shotgun) shot instead of split shot. - This will save time closing the split shot.

This article was written by M.Becatti.
You can visit Carolina-Fishing.com for further information about fishing in the Carolinas.

One of the most effective ways to catch huge prespawn bass in lakes and rivers are lipless crankbaits. These baits are especially effective when the water temperature is between forty-nine and fifty-eight degrees, especially in stained or muddy water in lakes and ponds, but it also works well in the rivers. Some of the techniques outlined below will help you catch bigger bass all over the country in the early spring starting in March, and peaking in April

“TYPES OF BAITS

There are are variety of lipless crankbaits on the market that catch bass, but in the spring, in most lakes and ponds, in the Northeast, the Rat-L-Trap by Bill Lewis Lures, the Rattlin’ Rapala, Lucky Craft, and the Ambush Stealth Diver, are some of the best. All lipless crankbaits have a different sound. Some are much louder than others, and will produce bass when some other quieter baits won’t. At other times, the more quiet rattling baits will produce better. You just have to experiment with several baits until you find the ones that are producing best in the particular body of water you’re fishing. Sometimes the same baits, in the same size, by the same company, make slightly different sounds that can be better than the other, and experimentation is the only way to find which bait works the best. Some baits won’t run as true at different speeds, and they turn sideways a little more than others, so you just have to watch them in the water, and find the best ones. The hooks should always be changed to a premium hook system such as Daiichi or X-Point. There are many other great hooks, but I prefer these. Most of your lipless crankbaits should be used in a 1/4 to 1/2 ounce size, but recently, bigger bass in the Northeast and in Florida have hit the larger Salt Water Traps in the 3/4 to 1-1/2 ounce sizes.

COLORS OF BAITS

The best colors for the spring, especially if you have a lot of crawfish in the lake, are red, red/orange, and other variations of these colors. Some have spots on them and these are very effective. The standard chrome, and chrome with a blue back, and chrome and red, have worked especially well for the larger bass. If the water is extremely stained to muddy, we forund that the red, and the chartreuse/brown combinations work well in this kind of situation. If you have a lot of bluegill in the area, and less crawfish or shad, then the Bluegill/Suncracker patterns work very well. The primary forage in the lakes are the best patterns, unless you know that many anglers are aware of this, and are using these colors also. Then switching to unconventional patterns can fool some of the wary bigger bass. Again, we switch only the front hook to a “Bleeding Bait Hook” by TTI-Blakemore, (Daiichi), and then change the back hook to the same brand but in the traditional nickel color.

TECHNIQUES

Most people just cast the baits out and reel them straight in. While this will always catch some bass, there are more specialized methods that trigger strikes from the bigger bass. Cast the Rat-L-Traps out, and depending on the depth of the water, count them down to the level of the fish before starting the retrieve, and if it is a sandy and/or gravel/rocky type of bottom, let them sink to the bottom, then slowly raise the tip of the rod till you feel the lure vibrating, reeling the slack up slowly, then lower the rod tip, and do it again. Many times they will hit as it is on the bottom, and first starts to be lifted up. If these techniques don’t work in a few hours, use a slight pumping action of the rod as you reel, keeping contact with the bait. If it hits a rock, weeds, or other structure, hesitate a second, and then rip it off quickly, and reel it in with a steady retrieve. You can also yo-yo the bait similar to a spoon or spinnerbait in deeper water near points and drop-offs, which can be extremely effective in colder water or on inactive fish that are suspended. Most of the time in water below fifty-eight degrees they hit very mushy, like grass or leaves, or even like you are snagged on a small branch, but most of the time it is a bass.

As they get close to the boat they will see you and make a dash for the trolling motor, and down to deeper water, sometimes even breaking the surface to throw the lure. The bass have to played very carefully as lipless crankbaits come out of the bass’s mouth much more easily than you might imagine. Most of the bass will be in the shallower water off the flats, near deeper water, rip-raps, if available, or any place where there are baitfish and/or cover near the north shore or bay, close to food sources, near their traditional spawning areas.

EQUIPMENT

I like to use spinning gear for the smaller 1/4 ounce baits, and I use baitcast gear for the larger 1/2 to 1 1/2 ounce baits. I use a 7 foot spinning rod in medium action for the smaller baits, so as not to pull the bait from their mouths, usually a S- Glass rod, a G.Loomis Cranking Stick, or a “Kistler” rod. In the baitcasters, I use a 7 foot, medium to med/heavy rod, with a high speed reel, but many people prefer a good reel in a 5:0:1 or 5:3:1 gear ratio. I always use P-Line or McCoy in ten to twelve pound test, but eight pound test is preferred by many. Stren is also a good line for this. Fan cast the baits in as many directions as possible in the prime areas such as the mouths of the back bays with creeks, where grasses and riprap are on a harder bottom, and you will start picking up some of these monsters this spring. A good scent on the baits, such as “Megastrike” can’t hurt either.

This year we have had a tremendous amount of success early in the year with the new “Stealth Diver” by Ambush. This is a very innovative design that funnels water over the face of the bait and into a hole and out the back. It creates a look and sound that most bass have not seen before. All these baits are available in the Delaware Tackle store in Wilmington, Delaware.

Sponsored by: GYCB (Yamamoto),TTI-Blakemore, Okuma, and Ambush Lures.

Steve is the owner of S&K Guide Service, and Co-owner of Delaware Tackle in Wilmington, Delaware. He also is a tournament angler,radio show host and producer, and freelance outdoor writer. He has over 40 years of fishing experience in the Northeast, 5 years exp. in California. He has fished freshwater and saltwater since 1962, and has devoted to freshwater only since 1989. He has fished tournaments from 1990 to the present, and won the Delaware State Sportfishing Tournament multiple times, registered a Chain Pickerel in 2000, just a few ounces shy of the State Record and a Largemouth Bass caught in 1999, that was registered in the Bassmaster Lunker Club at 10.16 pounds, just 5 ounces shy of the Delaware State Record. It also appeared in a feature article by the “News Journal” (Gannett Publications), and in all of Bass Pro Shops Master catalogs for 2003. Steve is also the 1998 Big Bass World Champ/De and in the N.A.F.C. “Hall Of Fame”.

http://www.reeltimeanglers.com

Who would have thought?

When you think of fishing, you seldom envision too many things that can keep you from partaking in this recreational activity.

Think again.

I am on the disabled list.

That’s right, in rehab– to much pain to cast my fly. Or my powerbait for that matter.

Now, complaining about a “fishing injury” is sorta like complaining that a hangnail is keeping you from typing.OOHH poor baby! Nonetheless, I am telling you, I am in too much pain to cast.

I didn’t exactly get injured fishing, so if your first thought was: “What, did he pull a muscle setting the hook?” Or “Does he have ‘fisherman’s elbow’ ?” “Did he fall out of his folding lawn chair?”

You would be wrong.Although negotiating a lawn chair can be tricky business, especially while holding a beverage.

Actually, I am not one hundred percent sure how I got injured, but it might have had something to do with doing a face plant–or shoulder plant to be exact– onto the basketball floor while playing a loosely resembled game of basketball.

I say loosely, because fi you saw the “brand” of basketball we play here in the “old boys” basketball league here in Southern Oregon, well–you would know what I mean.

As it was, I was already nursing a pulled hamstring, when as I limped along like a struggling Wildebeast, my shoe grabbed tight hold of the freshly finished hardwoods, and dropped me like a Douglas Fir sapling. Unfortunately, my “catlike” reflexes were unable to respond to the sudden pull of gravity, and I crashed shoulder first into the floor.

Sharp pain–no more basketball…

….or fishing.

I now have what modern medical technology has deemed as the “torn rotator cuff”.

Move over Pedro Martinez, my pitching career may be over.

If you have never had a torn rotator cuff, then you will not know the pain I am in. If you have, then you will understand the strange feeling of being able to pick up seventy pounds in one direction, but the problematic task of combing your hair can drop you to your knees in anguish.

Luckily, I have no hair.

Even trying to turn your steering wheel, wax your car or picking up a pot of chili can make you wince in pain.

Of course, chili can make you wince in pain for other reasons–but that is a different story.

Reaching back into the cooler for a beverage? No can do Elmo–we are talking major problems here.

Naturally, it is my right arm–my casting arm– and even though I don’t exactly throw a ninety mile an hour roll cast, the casting motion definately brings out some really creative and colorful language.

So, for now it is the disabled list, while I ponder surgery or therapy, hoping there is an off chance that it is really really bad tendonitis just flaring up like an air bag in my shoulder.

There isn’t enough ibuprofen on this planet to ease the pain when it hits you.

I mentioned that I wasn’t really sure how I tore the rotator cuff–because when you think about it, the art of casting is similar to the art of pitching or throwing a baseball.(baseball or throwing is probably the most common cause of torn rotator cuffs)

Who is to say that the numerous hours spent trying to get just ten more feet of casting length has not taken it’s toll on my casting arm.Pumping and wrestling in salmon and steelhead could surely put wear and tear on the shoulder also.

Maybe I should just hang up the ol’ waders and call it a career?

Give up fishing? No way!!

Even if I have to go back to dangling a worm and bringing in a “relief” reeler, rest assured I will be back out there soon tossing casts into mighty rivers. I just might have to work my way back up by casting on creeks and catching smaller fish during “rehab”.

Probably will have to pour smaller drinks too!

So beware of those fishing injuries, they can really put a crimp in your fishing life.

And if you see some guy stretching and warming up by tossing short casts ten feet out into the water–you just might want to ask him how his rotator cuff is doing.

A.J. Klott

Author, writer of fishing humor,and “fly tack” peddler.A.J. writes about the people,characters and modern day events that surround the fishing world. His first book is due out in December of 2005.
If you need a laugh or a fun gift, visit his website at:
http://www.twoguyswithflys.com

If you walk into your local fishing shop, you are likely to find a wide range of fishing gear. For the beginner, it can be hard to determine just what is out there and what you should be purchasing. While you may want to purchase products and gear that are specific to your tastes, it is much more important to purchase products that are of high quality instead. So, what do you look for and how do you know what to get? To know, here are some guidelines you should follow.

• First, determine what type of fish, what type of fishing and where you are headed to fish. Fishing gear is specific first to the type of fishing that you plan to do. You’ll need a different fishing rod for saltwater fishing than you will for freshwater fishing. Now, on to what type of fish you are after. You’ll need to know what weight of line you should purchase as well. You may need a heavier line if you are heading out for King Salmon rather than the small trout in your local pond. And, when it comes to the area, you’ll also need to know what the fish like. Some lures work on fish better than others. You can find this out by talking to the local fishing tackle employee.

• How much to purchase depends on what you plan to invest. The more that you purchase, though does nothing to make you a better fisherman. What you need is to insure that you get quality products that will withstand your adventure. Quality is always necessary.

• For the beginner, knowledge is also the key to success. If you haven’t been out there just yet, you should take along an experienced individual to help you. That way you get the best results and you get the education you need to do it on your own next time.

Fishing gear is fishing gear, right? It is not all the same and it is not easy to purchase unless you know what to get. The best way to know what to take with you on your next fishing adventure is to ask the local fishing tackle specialist in that area. They will be glad to tell you all that you need to know to head out. And, they may even tell you where a great fishing spot is located too.

This article was written by T.Potter. You can visit Discount Fishing Gear for further information about all types of fishing gear.

Most would agree a stop at the tackle shop shouldn’t be forgotten but recently I was told the story of a well planned and long anticipated fishing vacation. This spot was one of those that you hear whispered about and never see let alone get to fish on. A high mountain lake, secluded, trout as long as your arm and will strike a hook without bait or lure. A very rough road and 5 long hours from the sign that said “last services”. A week of camping, fishing and extreme R&R is the only thing in mind. As the great trout slayer rounded the bend and saw the pristine water for the
first time, an eerie feeling came all over him. Gas… he forgot gas. No hose that would act as a siphon. Another 10 hours travel time to be subtracted from the vacation before he could launch the boat.

We have all had that eerie feeling as we recalled our own “forgot the gas” caper. Our suggestion as old fashion as it seems: Make a camping/fishing list and save it. You can use it every time you
leave to go fishing, camping, vacation or just a trip.

We have holidays coming up that sprinkle through the summer. Here
is a tip we would like to share:

Each holiday we come home from the lake or mountains, streams and favorite fishing haunts to see in the news hundreds of accidents that have happened involving water sports. Take a moment before you leave home to whisper a fisherman’s prayer: “Help me to leave the fishing space a better place for my
grandchildren to experience tomorrow, and for my fellow angler, I pray for their safety.” These few moments to include SAFETY on your trip may make the difference in you or your party showing up in the news back home.

Include in your list:

A first aid kit, (if the kit doesn’t have Tea Tree Oil Buy some and add it to the kit)

Charged cell phone batteries, (adapter charge cord for the car or truck)

Enough life preservers,

Space blankets, (Walmart, very small and inexpensive)

Flash lights,

A whistle for the boat,

You may have a fire extinguisher in the boat, but you should have one also in the vehicle towing the boat,

Distilled water, (can be used for drinking)

Sunscreen, (Banana Boat AloeVera Gel with Solercain if you didn’t use the sunscreen)

Insect Repellant

Oh yeah, Don’t forget…BE SAFE and you will remember to have fun!

Have you ever fished with a Heddon Meadow Mouse? How did you do? The reason I ask is, I have fished with them until I lost my last one and did extremely well at catching big bass using them. I would throw the lure out and let it sit. Then twitch it once and watch it turn sideways, twitch it again and watch it turn the other way, then move it so slow it barely made a ripple and BANG. That’s when the fish would hit it. I know I have caught at least a dozen bass on this lure over 5 pounds and hooked one of the biggest bass I ever had on but it got loose. Yeah, I know you hear that all the time. But I am telling you this bass was at least 10 pounds and since I have a 12 pound 14 ounce on my wall, I know what a ten pound bass looks like. I seen a 6 pound bass caught on one the first time I ever seen one about 30 years ago and also seen a 7 1/2 pound walleye caught on one.

The reason I brought this up is that I found two on ebay and bought them both. How much, well with shipping and insurance I paid $16.75 for them. That may sound like a lot for those two old lures but I am a believer in what they can do catching big bass.

Charles E. White has fished for almost 50 years for bass from California to Florida. In his lifetime, he has caught over 6,000 bass. His biggest bass is a 12 pound 14 ounce that hangs on his wall in his office.

Charles has fished with people who have never fished for bass before and taught them how to become successful anglers and also has fished with the Pros in Florida. His new website about fishing for bass is at:
http://www.bassfishingweekly.com

One of the best ways to relieve stress is to take up a hobby. This is effective because it allows one to take his/her mind off the things that are stressing them such as work, family, and other life situations. Fishing is an outstanding hobby to take up if your aim is to relax and enjoy life a little.

Getting Started

Fishing gear can cost anywhere between $10 and $10,000. A novice can keep expenses down by buying combination outfits that include a rod and reel, line and lures. These are available at sporting good stores, tackle shops and online. A good resource for finding these items can be found at http://www.thefishingbobber.com.

The number choices available in fishing gear can be bewildering and intimidating. In just starting out, keep it simple. A spinning reel is versatile, easy to use and fun to cast. A baitcaster is mechanically different, but serves similar functions. With both types of reels, you can fish with artificial baits called spinners, spoons, and plugs, as well as with natural baits such as worms. Fly rods and reels used with artificial “flies” that mimic insects on which fish prey, present anglers with more of a challenge because of the greater difficulty of casting the line.

Remember, the measure of how successful a person is in fishing is whether they have a good time. The idea is to relax, and not necessarily to catch a whole bunch of fish. Actually catching fish, in fact, is a bonus and not an end in and of itself, at least not for the casual fisherman. According to the American Sportfishing Association, the most common reason people fish is to relax.

Imagine yourself out on the dock of a lake far from civilization with nobody around except you and the fish. It’s early in the morning and the mist is still rising over the water and you can still see your breath in the air. There is no responsibility, no noise of traffic, no smell of pollution, and no boss to answer to for the time that you are escaping to your new hobby, fishing. Now is that a relaxing vision, or what? That, my friend, is the Zen of Fishing.

Allen Bohart is a fishing fan and enthusiastic writer for about any subject that interests him. He is also co-owner of The Fishing Bobber, a site for and about fishing enthusiasts of all levels.

What is it in bass fishing that everybody are driven on to engage on such activity? People get fond of bass fishing that is why every trend that they hear about it really catches their interests and as much as possible get into it.

“Where are the what…? Where are the bass!” How many of the anglers (tournament and recreational) go to a body of water you’ve never fished before, drop the boat in the water, then, ask this question to yourself? This is probably one of the biggest topics in bass fishing that an angler should learn more about.

Here you will be getting information on how to locate areas best for bass fishing.
Locating bass and understanding the water would be the number one question among bass anglers today. The next most asked question would be is which baits they should use to catch a “big” bass.

Now when you think about it, there are really only two (2) main topics that go hand-in-hand when it comes to bass fishing. If you understood more about these two, you would definitely become a much better angler, and they are:

1. Knowing how to locate bass.

2. Knowing how to catch bass using all the different techniques, presentations, and baits.

Learning how to locate bass can be somewhat of a challenge to most anglers because there are so many different factors that need to be determined such as:

1. Knowing how to read a map - this is the fundamental skill that you should try to learn because through a map it is easier for you to take on the appropriate location good for bass fishing.

2. Knowing the most practical places to look for Active Bass just after cold fronts and during early spring and late fall periods - weather condition must be especially considered as well.

3. Understanding water depth- this is an important element because the depth or the hollowness of the water will serve as a factor for you to know if it is a good location.

4. Water clarity- it could be easier for you to now have your bass fishing if you are well-oriented about the water clarity of your location.

5. Water temperatures

6. Seasonal patterns- this is in relation with the trend whether bass fishing is seasonal or not.

7. Locating structure areas

8. Finding vegetation areas

But there is more! Being a consistent bass angler is so much more than just getting in your boat, hitting the water, and casting your baits. That’s why bass tournaments are so competitive and exciting, because the more you learn about locating bass the quicker you can start catching them right? And hey, isn’t that half the battle?

Let’s start by looking at a lake map. There are two general types of lake maps that most anglers will use which are referred to as the; “Hot Spot” and “Topographical” maps. The differences between the two is that a “Topo” map shows more detail, and the “Hot Spots” map shows more fishing spots (well, at least they’re supposed to).

The secret (or key) in learning how to use a lake map would be to sector the map. What I mean by this is that I will take the map and study it for a moment (looking for areas where the fish would most likely be.) Next, I will (using a highlighter) divide the map in sections based on how much time I have to pre-fish for a tournament or how many days I have to just fish the body of water for fun.

The size of the sections will vary depending on contours, structure, and how many places I may want to check out during the course of the day based on what the map shows me. I am certainly not one to just cast bait into the water and work it for five minutes and leave; I will try an assortment of baits if I see signs of fish in any given area to try to establish a working pattern.

Here are some key elements that you can usually look for when it comes to locating bass on any given body of water:

1. Vegetation areas

2. Irregular contours

3. Shallow water close to deep water areas

4. Points and point drops

5. Various types of structure

For free bass fishing tips and Florida bass fishing secrets, visit www.bassfishingsystem.com/ today.

If you want to get serious about bass fishing, it’s important that you learn to use all the tools.

The one I’m going to discuss now is the baitcasting reel. The benefits of these were discussed in Baitcasting Reels - Worth Learning, Pt. 1.

So, what is the best way to tackle these buggers? First, you’ll want to make sure it’s set up right. Let’s adjust the brakes on the system to help alleviate some bird’s nests.

Start learning the baitcasting reel with a 3/8 oz. or a 1/2 oz. weight until you get the hang of it.

Put the break at it’s highest setting, usually 10. Now, adjust the spool tension as tight as it will go (usually on the right side with no numbers). Hold the rod and reel straight out in front of you and click the line release button to allow the lure to fall straight down to the ground. Start backing off the spool tension until the lure (I use practice plugs) slowly falls to the ground, and when it hits, no more line comes off the spool. This is the correct setting.

While you are practicing (yes, you are going to need to practice with this reel), back off on the brake just a little at a time. Eventually you will get more comfortable with the new settings and you should be able to cast farther. Experiment with different settings with the brake and spool.

Don’t Overspool

While you are learning the baitcasting reel, do not overspool. Adding too much line, at least until you get used to throwing it, will cause backlash. By adding less line to the reel, less line comes off with every rotation and it’s easier to avoid backlashing, especially with mono which has a memory and will loosely coil up around the spool once tension is relieved.

Make Sure To Get The Right Combo

The lighter the lure you are casting, the shorter the rod you need for the baitcasting reel. Using too long of a rod with a light weight will result in backlash. Casting a 1/8th or 1/4 ounce plastic plug will result in little if any load up on the rod tip from midway up with a 7 foot rod and the bird’s nests are inevitable.

Also, the 7 foot rod is not meant for casting. It is meant for lobbing 2 handed as in the Carolina rig or for underhanded pitching as in 1/2 ounce and up jigs. Get a 6 foot medium heavy or a 6 foot 6 inch medium heavy rod and then try 2 handed casting. You will have much more control over the spool as you feather it with your thumb.

Thumbs Up - Or Down

The whole trick to using the baitcasting reel is the use of the thumb. Applying and releasing pressure to the spool with your thumb is the key to this system, and you must master it.

Here it is in a nutshell: put the thumb on the line to hold it in place while you click the line release button. Cast the lure by releasing the thumb pressure, but keep the thumb barely touching the line. As the lure reaches its destination, apply more pressure with the thumb as a brake and to keep the line from spooling off into a bird’s nest.

Easier said than done. It takes a lot of practice to get the right touch.

Again, when you cast keep your thumb on lightly on the spool. A brief touch of more pressure at the beginning of the cast and less as it goes out. Keep practicing until you can cast over and over without a bird’s nest and then start easing off the tension knob and the brake.

Don’t try to be a hero. Throwing too hard will snag you up. Throw a moderate distance until you get used to it. As you get better at this, you will see your distance improve.

Now, there is much more to be said about all of this. I have compiled a list of tips for you in Baitcasting Reels - Worth Learning, Pt. 3

—-
By >Bobby Ivie

Bobby Ivie is an avid fishman and owner of Fishing-Hunting-Camping.com. He makes the biggest part of his living on the Internet, NetBizWorkshop.net

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